The Brazil Diaries #5: Chileans take over Rio de Janeiro

Media outlets in Brazil reported that roughly 50,000 Chileans descended upon Rio de Janeiro for their country's match against Spain, but it actually felt like more than that.

The night before the fixture, Copacabana could have been mistaken for a beach in Chile. There were more red shirts than yellow-and-green jerseys, and that wasn't anything compared to the morning of the match, when spotting a Brazilian in the Chilean crowds was nearly impossible.

George and I had hoped to score tickets to the game, but we realized in the afternoon that it wasn't going to be likely. Scalped tickets were selling for 2,000 reais. It was no surprise when we heard that Chilean supporters had attempted to break into the Maracana by climbing the stadium's surrounding fences.

We ended up watching Chile knock out the defending champions at a bar in Lapa, a neighborhood often referred to as the most lively in all of Rio de Janeiro. There are bars and restaurants everywhere, and the colorful streets are decorated with graffiti and World Cup flags. With the exception of a few pockets of Spanish fans, Lapa was filled entirely with Chileans who were unable to acquire tickets. 

When the final whistle blew and Chile had won 2-0, I obviously expected some wild scenes in Rio that night, but I couldn't have imagined how crazy things got.

Our ensuing subway ride from Lapa to Copacabana took place on a carriage that was packed with rowdy Chileans who chanted "Chi, Chi, Chi, Le, Le, Le, Viva Chile!" throughout the ride. They were jumping around too, to the point that the carriage was rocking back and forth through the tunnels. 

I can't say I've ever seen a party like that on Toronto's subways.

Upon arriving at Copacabana, the rain was beginning to come down. And in a matter of minutes, it was pouring. Despite the downpour, most Chileans opted against running for cover and instead chose to party on the beach in the rain. I must have heard the "Chi, Chi, Chi, Le, Le, Le" chant about a million times as the celebrations carried on into the night.

Rio de Janeiro Santiago, man...